Only in the Renaissance did the shirt become an essential component of both men's and women's clothing. At this time, numerous cuts are made on the bodices of women's dresses, on men's doublets and on the sleeves, through which the shirts protrude in the form of puffs (the so-called bouillon). The collar of the shirt also protrudes from under the outerwear, so it is decorated with thick gathers, embroidery, patterned braid, and trimmed with lace. In the 16th century, a collar, which reaches enormous dimensions by the end of the century (the so-called gorghera, or "millstone"), appears and becomes one of the most important decorative elements of Western European men's and women's suits.
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